Project details
This is a frameless upper cabinet in the standard 12" depth. The box itself is 11.25" deep so the 3/4" doors bring the finished depth to 12". Sides run the full 30" height; the top and bottom fit between them, so they are 22.5" long (24 − 1.5).
The doors are full overlay: each is 11.75" wide, which leaves a 1/8" gap between the pair and a 3/16" reveal at each side. The shelf is 1/8" narrower than the opening for shelf pins and 3/4" shallower than the sides so a 1/4" back can sit in a rabbet.
Additional materials
| Part | Size (in) | Quantity | Material | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back panel | 23.25 × 29.25 | 1 | 1/4" plywood | Cut from a separate 1/4" sheet. |
| Hanging rail | 22.5" long | 1 | 3/4 × 3 plywood or hardwood | Screws through the back into wall studs. Optional if the back panel is 1/2" or thicker. |
Cutting sequence
- Rip the carcass parts
Rip one 11.25" strip the full length of the sheet. The two sides, top, and bottom all come out of it.
- Rip the doors from a second strip
A second rip at 11.75" gives both doors with length to spare. Cut them from the cleanest part of the sheet.
- Cut the shelf last
Measure the inside of the dry-fitted box before cutting the shelf to 22.375".
- Drill shelf pins before assembly
Shelf-pin holes are easier to drill with the sides lying flat. Keep them 1" back from the front edge.
Questions
Can I cut two of these cabinets from one sheet?
Not quite. Two cabinets are about 92 percent of a sheet before the saw kerf, and the calculator puts the second cabinet on a second sheet. Three cabinets fit on two sheets at about 69 percent yield, so a run of uppers is more efficient than a single one.
What if I want a 36" tall cabinet?
Change the side and door lengths to 36 and 35.75 and add a second shelf. The calculator still lays it out on one sheet at about 57 percent yield.